6/07/2007

Getting Past the Color Barrier

Color...is it always about black and white? No, of course not. Often, it's about red, white and pink.

I'm talking about wine, of course.

With the warmth of summer upon us, it's the time of year that fervent red wine drinkers hate to acknowledge--it's just too hot to drink red wine. As the seasons change, so does the palate, but staunch red wine drinkers are often loath to abandon their favorite wines to drink varietals that they largely believe to be "less than."

Many men I know will switch to vodka at this time of year, unable to get past the mental barrier of what they consider to be girly white wines. Frankly, they're scarred from years of watching their mothers and grandmothers drink that horrid concoction known as the wine spritzer

Considering that this particular recipe actually recommends adding peach schnapps or even--shudder--orange soda makes it clear why a manly Cab drinker would eschew the whites.

But if you're a person who likes the tannic taste of big reds, all is not lost. At their core, these wines lean toward the dry side. And there are plenty of white varietals that will give you a sense of satisfaction in the heat of summer.

If you live in a place with a lot of humidity, you will definitely appreciate the dry whites of Spain and Italy. These winemakers understand warm weather, and their crisp, clean offerings are great for a day out on the boat, at the beach, or a muggy backyard picnic.

From Spain, viura is the Spanish wine world's answer to the gin and tonic. The overall tone is dry and crisp, with a clean finish that offers faint hints of lime. Muy delicioso!

Italy brings us its fantastic world of pinot grigio. Unlike the viura wines, which tend to be fairly consistent in their flavor, pinot grigio does need a little more explanation, and perhaps exploration.

Pinot grigio tends to fall into three quality categories. At the lowest (and cheapest) end, the wine will be, again, dry and crisp with a slight hint of almond in the finish. As the wine increases in quality and price, the fruit flavors become more evident.

Personally, the driest, cheapest, pinot grigio is my favorite type. So if you lean toward drier wines that don't overwhelm your palate with a lot of fruit, you're going to want the cheap Italian pinot grigio. Best of all, you can find these bottles in nearly every region of the country for around $7 per bottle.

I emphasize Italian because California's version is just such a fruit-bomb in comparison. The big difference between Californian wines and their European cousins is that California's versions will always have a bigger body. Because of this, devotees of Caifornia chardonnay, for instance, often find the French chardonnay to be too watery for their tastes.

Conversely, California's pinot grigios have so much fruit in them that they start to taste like sauvignon blanc. Not that there's anything wrong with that. But it can really be too much peach, pear, and apple for me, particularly when I'm in a climate that has a lot of humidity. All that fruit becomes a little chewy and my taste buds go into overload when all they want is a crisp and quenching sensation.

But what if you're sharing a bottle with someone, and one person prefers fruit and the other likes dry and crisp? Head to South Africa. The wines of this region have been a staple in lands like Holland, but are relatively new to the States. Until recently, they were almost impossible to find, which is really a shame.

South African wines are still finding their place at American tables. But if you need a compromise wine, as is often the case when sharing a bottle, their blends can't be beat. The South Africans tend to produce blends that combine every grape in the field, offering a great middle-of-the road option--light fruit, medium body, nice clean finish.

Many wine drinkers are adamant in their dedication to one varietal, producer, or even color of wine. But the beauty of the grape lies in its nuance. There is truly something for everyone out there, in hidden bottles that you may have never considered. Breaking out of the rut will always be a hit-or-miss proposition. Fortunately, the fun of wine drinking sometimes comes from the fact that even a wine not necessarily suited to your palate will taste just fine at the bottom of the glass!

64 comments:

Benoit™ said...

First!

Forget wine -- in my line of work, I have unfettered access to 200-Proof Ethanol (pure alcohol). One "standard Drink" is approximately 18 milliliters of the stuff. :-)

Regarding "oenophilia", I'm not a big wine drinker except sweet wine on holidays. I like Amaretto DiSaronno though..... :)

PMSPMS™©® said...

Oh come on Asp! What about a plug for some Australian wines! (whine...).

The Real Wagga™ said...

I second the motion - try Yellowtail (at least the cab). More whine...

T said...

All this talk about wine and no mention of the pruno Paris Hilton will be drinking in the slammer.

Frankly, Aspeth, I'm disappointed and I think in some way... Paris would be, too.

Schnapps said...

Hey, what about a plug for some good BC wines?

Am partial to the dry whites myself - tannins and sulfates give me bad headaches.

And as for Paris, quite honestly, I think she'd miss the high-protein diet she's used to rather than the wine - isn't she in a women's facility?

::whistle::

:)

Aspeth said...

Okay, okay, PMSPMS...how about a whole separate post on the Aussie vinos?


T....LOL. Nice reference. You know which one I mean :)


Schnapps...you're going to have to represent the BC wines. I don't see to many of them down here, so you're going to have to point us in the right direction.

The Real Wagga™ said...

I'll weigh in on the oz plonk.

Schnapps said...

If y'all don't see the BC wines, y'all are missing out. :>

T said...

"You know which one I mean"

Fo' sho. :)

Akubi said...

Unfortunately, I'm not a wine connoisseur, but I am an absinthe enthusiast.
Benoit,
With the right herbal blend, you could make some SWEET absinthe with 200-Proof ethanal.
Also, I'd like to remind everyone that this week's 6 Degrees of Casey Serin game is on: 6 Degrees of Casey Serin™ to Scooter Libby

Aspeth said...

OT, but I think it a bit odd that someone on EN is using an old post title of mine as a user name. Anyone want to cop to "Send Galina Serin to Prison?"

Akubi said...

Aspeth,
I was wondering the same thing. Did you ask Rob Dawg?

Aspeth said...

I don't think he would know. But I'm just thinking that if you're going to steal someone else's words that you should, uh, link to them or else choose your own phrase.

BelowTheCrowd said...

Aspeth,

I can't imagine that the sentiment associated with that username is all that unique. But no, it is not I...

As to the wines. If you're willing to spend a bit more, the NZ Sauvignon Blancs are world class, crisp, sharp and wonderful while still having a bit of nice fruit to them. Alternately, I usually go for the Aussie variants of the same, though they frequently suffer from the same California-style fruitiness.

And I must admit that I love a real Chablis. Not the crap Gallo sells under that name, but a real wine from the Chablis region of France, which is a Chardonnay, but typically quite lean and finished without the typical oak.

That said, I live in a location where it is rarely too hot for reds except during the afternoon, so I'm able to stick with my favorites for the most part. What tends to happen to me more this time of year is that I'm doing a lot more grilling, so my reds tend to switch from the typical Bordeaux varietals towards wines that are either gamier (Pinot/Burgundy) or spicier (young red zin).

That said, I just took everything out of storage with the intent of finishing them all off, especially those mid-80s cabs that despite their pedigree are probably somewhat too old by now.

If anybody wants to share a bottle of '87 Caymus Special Selection, please let me know...

And no, I'm not ashamed to admit that I have some really nice old cases of wine, though I do not have a BMW or any koi (which are cat food).

-btc

Aspeth said...

BTC...agree that the sentiment is not unique, but I believe that was one of the links in CS's c|net story, so it's also not obscure.

Whole-heartedly agree with the NZ sauvignon blanc! It's the only appellation of that varietal that I'll drink--you're right that the others are too fruit-rich. And, yes, also agree (all this agreeing is getting boring) with the burgundy and zin for summer. Classics.

My so-called cellar has a lot of '00-'02 pinot noir that I picked up for close to nothing back before they became insanely popular. The drought, then heavy rains, in the Carneros district made for some absolute steals at Trader Joe's back in the day.

In fact, I think I paid about $80/case for '01 Valley of the Moon. When I'm an old woman in the home, I'll be telling my nurses about that year. And then forgetting it. And then telling them again.

Schnapps said...

I am partial to the organic wines myself. The Okanagan Valley produces some nice ones.

But avoid "Grey Monk" if you can. Its bitter.

Partner's parents are surrounded by 5 vineyards (they bought their lot for $10K about 40 years ago and built a house on it. Its worth half to three-quarters of a million, easy now).

If you can, find a Mission Hill, or (which is more likely) a Jackson Triggs. All decent wines. Like I said, I like the dry wines so I'm partial to the Pinot Gris, and the occasional Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc.

And if you're really lucky, you can find a Summerhill Pinto Gris Plantinum - extremely dry and runs about $30 (CDN) a bottle.

But Summerhill is hard to find in Vancouver - they've only just started bringing it in to the Vitners Quality Alliance (VQA) stores here.

I'm not a wine conoisseur by any stretch. I don't know how to tell the difference between tastes, etc. I only know what I like.

Aspeth said...

Schnapps...organic wines are fairly new to me, so I have some questions. Do you find the sulfites don't affect you as badly with the organics? Or is it simply from avoiding the reds?

Thanks for the recommendations on the BC wines. I would think that climate would make some fantastic wines...I'm guessing similar to Willamette Valley, though just guessing.

Schnapps said...

I'm more allergic to yeasts and preservatives than I am to sulfites. The organics have no preservatives and so long as I stay away from champagnes, itsallgood :) Reds are bad and I don't particularly like them anyways (unless I have a nice side of Alberta beef :)). I have little to no problem with the organic whites, but haven't tried the reds, really. The Summerhill Meritage is supposed to be really good (and runs $35-$40/bottle from the winery)

I don't know about the Williamette Valley - but the Okanagan Valley is at the tail end of a desert (the one that runs through Nevada and down to Mexico). Hot, dry summers, cold-ish but dry winters.

Aspeth said...

That's interesting that a Canadian winery uses the term meritage as well. You've got me totally interested in this region now. I'm going to have to sort out what the shipping rules are.

When you mentioned earlier that we're missing out, I'm sure you could be right. For better or worse, the reality is that California protects its producers. We have access to incredible CA wines, but tend to pay more for imports...strange because I find some incredible deals on European and S. African wines on the east coast.

Oh, and strangest wine of last year was a Cab from Syria. I mean, who doesn't want to know what Syrian cab tastes like?

BelowTheCrowd said...

Schnapps,

The sulfites typically are added as preservatives. Although all wines do contain some naturally-occurring sulfites.

Organics tend to refer more to the method of grape growing: no chemicals, etc.

Aspeth,

Okanagan is far drier than the Willamette Valley and somewhat colder, so tends to favor very different varietals. Willamette is west of the Cascades where it's nice and wet and works well for the Burgundy grapes: Pinot and Chardonnay, though others are grown too with varying results. Okanagan tends to be more favorable to drier country grapes. The closest US comp would be the upper Columbia Valley in Washington State, which is directly to the south.

However, Okanagan is just almost too cold for some types of grapes. They do very well with some of the colder-temp grapes like Riesling and Gewrurtztraminer, somewhat less well with other whites and the reds are very variable. Like lots of regions, there has been lots of experimentation with various degrees of success.

I used to occasionally see BC wines when I lived in Portland, but not down in SoCal or in New York.

-btc

Aspeth said...

Aha. Thanks for the clarification, BTC. I'd assumed that the BC terroir would have a similar fog, mountain winds, etc. But that makes sense that the colder temps would produce sweeter wines.

Willamette and Columbia regions both produce some lovely reds. Can be hit or miss, but it's fun to come across a really nice one.

Have you been to Temecula lately? Every time I go, which isn't often, I'm amazed at the growth. Most wines still fall short (I do remember a decent barbera, though its charm was overshadowed by a Callaway nightmare with a hellacious glass that smelled and tasted of "locker room").

BelowTheCrowd said...

The NW changes fast as you move over the Cascade range. On the west it's wet and foggy, on the east side it rapidly turns to desert. The temp and humidity differential from Portland to the Dalles in summer can be 30+ degrees, and as much in humidity percentage which is part of the reason for the 40+ mph winds that rush through the Columbia River Gorge. In winter it can be the opposite, as the coastal areas tend to stay foggy but generally not frozen while inland it can be at or near freezing quite regularly.

Living up in Portland I got to experience a lot of the smaller wineries from that region that just aren't big enough producers to get sold outside the Northwest. Lots of really nice family wineries with small production. That's become uneconomic anywhere in California.

I haven't been to Temecula in many years. I remember when it was a lot smaller and less built up than it is now. Even the Callaway (especially the chard) was very nice back then. They really did it "Chablis style" and it was a great, crisp, summer wine. Somehow always made my girlfriend horny. Not sure what they were putting into it, but it worked. For me anyway. :)

It's an interesting region because the microclimates are absolutely in control with huge variations coming from only small changes in location.

I got a little burned out to visiting wineries after 7 years close to one wine country or another. Just now beginning to become re-interested.

-btc

Aspeth said...

Callaway did make a decent chard ...haven't had it in years, so can't speak to it now.

So with so much variation in the Cascade region, are there any ice wines? That's something I've only found in Europe and really don't see in the States at all. Great for winter, thanks to the enormous alcohol content :)

My interest in Temecula was really piqued by meeting a winemaker for a small-ish winery. He was one of the original Napa guys, but hated "what Napa has become" as he said. The true joy for him was the creation, not being a part of a destination. Such passion in this guy...it was truly infectious.

As for the other, I think several hours of wine tasting makes most people pretty, uh, happy !

Benoit™ said...

Maybe the person using the "Send Galina Serin to Prison" handle is Casey himself...! Can't you picture his attitude, sitting across from the prosecutor --

"It was all my wife's doing! She conned me into signing the papers and told me 'it's all good'!! Send her to prison!"

Not so far-fetched... ;-p

BelowTheCrowd said...

Haven't tried the Callaway Chard in some time, but last I did it had gone downhill.

I understand the "wanting to get out of Napa" feeling. Several Oregon winemakers I know ended up there for that reason.

There are some ice wines made in Oregon and Washington. The problem is that the weather often doesn't cooperate, which forced the producers to either produce a more standard "late harvest" sweet wine to go for a post-harvest artificial freeze. In any case, all are fairly rare. Elk Cove Ultima -- which is one of the better sweet wines from the region and almost a cult wine to some -- is only made in exceptional years. Last vintage was 2004, and 2000 was the one before that.

Actually, BC is one of the few regions in North American that reliably produces icewines. The cold that makes it rough on warm-weather grapes is just perfect for providing optimal icewine production in most years.

-btc

Aspeth said...

Thank you for an incredibly interesting conversation.

From what I've seen, that is the problem with ice wines...areas that support vines are speculative, at best, when it comes to producing grapes in a frost.

Elk Cove Ultima...an excellent product to learn more about...from my background, I'm going to subtitle it the Election Year Eiswein. We could all use an alcohol boost in those seasons.

Schnapps...do you have any experience with these?

Schnapps said...

Ice wines? Not really. I don't have much of a sweet tooth (and they're damn expensive). All I know is that its been difficult over the last few years for growers to produce icewines because it hasn't been cold enough at the right time in the Okanagan Valley.

BTC, the Summerhill doesn't add any sulfites in the processing phase (to its whites anyways), and doesn't use chemicals for controlling the bugs, etc. Mission Hill doesn't tout itself as organic, but I just generally find the Okanagan wines make me less headachy than a lot of the European wines. California wines are usually pretty good, but I don't have a lot of experience with them (there's a big push to buy BC here - despite the fact the Governator was in town last week touting California wines)

As for red wines, I think my favourite is actually a Ravenswood Vitner's blend. It was fairly dry (and it was a gift :)). I think that was my only experience with California wines. We were going to get some wine in California when we cruised to Mexico, but ended up hitting the duty free at the Vancouver airport instead. I'd like to take a wine tour of Napa someday though. The country is gorgeous.

Okanagan wines to stay away from: Grey Monk and Calona. ::cringe::

flailing forward said...

I'm a beer man myself. Although I did dabble in some of the bum wines in my younger days. Ahh, almost as good a buzz as from drinking robitussin.

Anyway, I would consider someone using your post title to be a form of flattery. There was someone posting at EN as Falling Floorward for a while. The only thing that bothered me about it was that I realized that combining the two into Flailing Floorward would have been a much better name than the other two.

On the Paris drama, how infuriating is it that the freaking Sheriff let her go home? He disregards a direct order from a judge because Paris has a "medical condition" (protein withdrawal). I can't stand second and third generation rich folk. What utter wastes of space they are. Did anybody see Sarah Silverman dis Paris on the MTV awards? Hilarious.

T said...

Yes, I did see the bit. I love me some Sarah Silverman. She's got big bawls.

Sprezzatura said...

koi (which are cat food)

ROFL.

Aspeth said...

Flailing...I didn't think much of it, but when I read more posts, it looks like the same person who's been flaming LossMitPro. So I just feel like, don't tie me to that...if I have anything to say, I'll do just that.

T's been keeping us apprised of the Paris scandal. I'm reminded of the Chris Rock routine when Martha Stewart went to jail...something along the lines of "when rich white women are being sent off to prison, you know nobody's safe!"

T said...

I know absolutely diddley-squat about wine. In fact, I rarely drink. But when I do, I'm a vanilla rum-type of girl.

Perhaps I was a pirate in another life or some suchness? Who knows. What I do know for certain is that vanilla rum and diet coke kick serious ass.

Yarr!

T said...

Well, SOMEONE has to keep everyone's thoughts and prayers focused on Paris. Sheesh. I mean, it's not like the poor girl's getting any MSM coverage, ffs.

Poor little rich girl.

Aspeth said...

lol, T. There's been a running joke around my office this week that PH crying, PH being carted to jail, PH having a panic attack in the cell...are not mainstream news-worthy topics. (Nor is the television show that aired right before the news or American Idol, but that's another topic entirely.)

Vanilla rum and coke sounds pretty tasty. You might have just clued me into my new summer drink :)

flailing forward said...

T, they took away her cellphone!!! And her PDA. This is cruel and unusual punishment! How is she supposed to check to see if that bitch Lindsay is stealing her man or not??? (not that she can probably still remember who her man of the moment is anyway)

Aspeth said...

That's a good point, Flailing. Perhaps with this vast need in the marketplace, CS could create an offshoot of IAFF as a support group for pampered unemployed kids who have their shiny toys snatched from their clutches!

BelowTheCrowd said...

> they took away her cellphone!!! And her PDA. This is cruel and unusual punishment!

Sowing the seeds of the Casey Serin defense.

As far as I have been able to determine, she has already served more time than any other person with no prior record would have for the same violation in LA county.

10% of the sentence for non-violent minor offenses is apparently the current norm.

And there's currently quite a bit of legal debate going on (which will probably continue) as to whether the judge even had the legal authority to put out the order he did.

-btc

T said...

Isn't it obvious? The judge is totally a hater. :)

Nah, but for real, it was PH's blatant disregard for her suspended license that twisted this judge's nutsack. And I don't blame him... I mean, what part of "your license has been suspended" did she not understand?

PS: Whaler's Vanille Rum is my favorite. It's soooo friggen good! Plus it comes in a really groovy bottle.

BelowTheCrowd said...

T,

I agree. If she had just said something like "Sorry, I misunderstood the terms, my bad," there probably would have been no unusual treatment.

But the whole charade of claiming that as an adult she didn't even need to bother understanding the terms of a sentence imposed by a judge, because various of "her people" were going to take care of it for her, was just not the kind of thing that would go over well. Judges don't like to be told "I didn't care about what you told me." Far better to admit "I tried to pull a fast one."

I can't handle rum anymore. Maybe in minute quantities in a mixed drink, but that's about it. Vodka and tequila work for me, and even tequila in moderation only.

I do have a fully stocked bar, mostly with very, very dusty bottles except for the ones that have been rubbed against by somebody with a knack for picking up dust...

-btc

T said...

LOL @ "my bad"! Wasn't it, tho? Totally her bad.

IMO, drinking and driving is just really, really wrong. And to have as much money as she does and not hire a friggen driver is just plain stupid. So fuck her. The dumb bitch. Let her cry. She got what she had coming, whined about it to the jailors and her psychiatrist and now the judge said, NO DEAL, a la Casey. You gotta love it. Only in California, right?

And do you mean to tell me that there are people who actually have a KNACK for picking up dust??? Is that sorta like the whole, "I wiggle my ears" thing?

BelowTheCrowd said...

I didn't say anything about people.

There are certain living featherdusters in this residence, one of whom has a knack for jumping up on the bar and rubbing against some bottles, which as a result are the only ones not collecting dust.

For example, this koi lover.

-btc

T said...

I stand corrected. Indeed, you did not say anything about people. That's one pretty kitty. What's his/her name?

And now that I'm thinking about it, I'm wondering why the hell all MY cat does is sleep, eat, and purr.

In all fairness, I think someone needs to teach this fat ass to dust. Or at least clean out his own litter box.

T said...

(We've totally hijacked Aspeth's wine discussion. LOL.)

BelowTheCrowd said...

He is Chaos. Like all my pet names it's from mythology, though sort of appropriate to him in other ways too.

Chaos was the personification/deity of the state of affairs before anything recognizable was created. He/She/It was the parent of Gaea (Earth), Erebus (underworld), Nyx (night) and Eros (love) among others, and depending on which version of creation in Greek mythology you're dealing with. Hesiod described Chaos as "vast and dark" as well as a "confused shapeless mass." If you ever meet my Chaos in the dark you'll know why he got that name.

Back to wine. I'm drinking some. Nothing particularly noteworthy.

-btc

BelowTheCrowd said...

Also, as suggested above, he eats koi (which are fish).

-btc

TK said...

Yaaaaaaaaaargh! Well done, good post as I am ITB. Viura good call, but no mention of RIESLING!? Pinot Grigio? C'mon! Pinot gris and Pinot blanc run nearly as cheap and offer more depth and flavor! Gewurz, Vinho Verde and South African Sauv. Blanc with their peachy minerally tones are awesome. Also, check out cheapie Touraine Sauvignon from the Loire valley. For God's sake people avoid Yeller Tail at all costs. It is the Rush Hour 3 of wine - made specifically to sell to the masses without any real guts or character. Ask you winestore guy/lady for a reco PLEASE!

T said...

Damn. And here I foolishly assumed you just named him that cause he was a rascal and liked to cause trouble. Silly me. :)

And I don't believe for a second that your cat prefers to eat Koi the fish rather than dine at Koi the restaurant.

T said...

ROFL @ the Rush Hour 3 of wine.

BelowTheCrowd said...

T,

OK, I have to admit it.

He's a rascal and likes to cause trouble. But somehow after something crashes to the floor, I always find him at the opposite end of the room, facing a wall..

Right now he's sort of drooping over my shoulder, purring.

-btc

T said...

OK, I have to admit it.

He's a rascal and likes to cause trouble.


I knew it!! I WIN!!

PS: I brought Nacho home a girlfriend a few weeks ago. She's a black and gray tabby kitten and her name is Madison.

Aspeth said...

Holy hell...slept for 15 hours last night and feel like hell today. I guess the no more than 4 hours sleep/night for the past 3 weeks finally caught up with me.


TK...good calls. On this one, I wanted to stay on the pretty dry end; moving into the pinot gris, chenin blanc, riesling...all just a lot more fruit. A separate post, perhaps?


T...maybe now that Nacho has a friend, he won't be so full of hate :)


BTC has feisty felines? Who wudda guessed it?

Akubi said...

Sounds like you're starting a Rozerem(tm) sleep aid schedule...for the insomniacs.

BelowTheCrowd said...

BTC has feisty felines? Who wudda guessed it?

It's been well documented for a while:

Cat

flailing forward said...

If anybody hasn't been to EN yet today, you may want to go check it out.

T said...

HOLY. FUCKING. SHIT.

BelowTheCrowd said...

Now boycotting all Australian wines.

-btc

Benoit™ said...

The second comment on this thread is eerily prescient, given when it was written......

Kool-Aid said...

KC is still one of your #1 fans.

NotAnOptimist said...

@Benoit™
LOL. You spake the truth.

@PMSPMS
You are showing true signs of prescience... tell us, O Seer, how long are KC's adoring fans going to remain adoring?

RawLifestyle- Caroline Jeannot said...

Mm..I will definitely have to try one of those South African wines.

Very eloquently written article. I wish you had categories for your articles (e.g. food and wine category, pet category) that would show all your blogs relating to that category. Just food for thought for your visitors!

-Caroline
http://www.rawlifestyle.wordpress.com

Aspeth said...

Thanks for the feedback, Caroline. I'll definitely heed your comment and will create a tag list of some sort. It probably won't happen straight away, but I think your logic is sound.

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